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Skincare Acids

Types, Benefits & How to Use Them

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SKINCARE ACIDS: TYPES, BENEFITS, AND HOW TO USE THEM

From glycolic to tranexamic acid, discover what makes each one unique and how to find the right one for your skin.

Skincare acids might sound intimidating, but they have plenty to offer. From boosting hydration to addressing dark spots and blemishes, each one brings something different to your routine. Here's what you need to know about their benefits, how they work, and which ones deserve a spot in your skincare lineup.

What exactly are skincare acids?

If glycolic acid exfoliates, hyaluronic acid hydrates, and tranexamic acid helps brighten, how can all three be acids when their benefits are so different?

The answer comes down to chemistry. The term “acid” refers to a molecule’s chemical properties, not necessarily what it does to your skin. Each acid works differently depending on its unique structure and the formula it’s part of.

Close-up of a skincare formula with translucent bubbles.

Exfoliating acids: AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs

Some of the most familiar acids in skincare are exfoliating acids, such as glycolic (AHA) and salicylic acid (BHA). But what makes them different? While they all help remove dead skin cells, each works a little differently.

AHA (alpha hydroxy acids), such as glycolic and lactic acid:

Help exfoliate dead skin cells and improve texture, boost radiance, and minimize the appearance of fine lines.

BHA (beta hydroxy acids), such as salicylic acid:

Oil-soluble acids that help unclog pores and reduce the look of blemishes.

PHAs (polyhydroxy acids), including gluconolactone:

Offer a gentler approach to exfoliation while helping support skin hydration, making them an option for some sensitive skin types.

3 common myths about skincare acids

“Acids aren't suitable for sensitive skin”

FALSE. Not all acids work the same way, and some are gentler than others. The key is finding the right ingredients and formula for your skin’s needs.

“You can't combine acids with retinol or vitamin C”

FALSE. It all comes down to the formula and your skin's tolerance. While some products combine these ingredients effectively, layering multiple intensive products can increase the risk of irritation. Sometimes, less is more.

“You can't use acids in summer”

IT DEPENDS. Certain exfoliating acids can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, but it doesn't mean you have to skip them altogether. Follow the product’s usage instructions and apply broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every day.

Woman gently touching her cheek during her skincare routine.

How to incorporate acids into your skincare routine

Every day or just a few times a week? Morning or night? It all depends on the acid and, most importantly, the formula. Some products are designed for daily use, while others offer more intensive exfoliation and are best used less frequently.

New to exfoliating acids? Here are a few tips to get started:

  1. Start slowly and follow each product's instructions.
  2. Avoid layering multiple exfoliants to prevent over-exfoliation.
  3. Pay attention to how your skin looks and feels.
  4. Apply broad-spectrum sunscreen every day.

7 skincare acids: Which one is right for your skin?

Glycolic acid: Skin renewal at its best

Dull skin, uneven texture, or the first signs of wrinkles? This AHA helps remove dead skin cells from the surface and promotes renewal. The result: visibly smoother, more even-toned, radiant skin.

Our recommendation: The rejuvenating Diamond Glyco Extreme Peel to renew your complexion.

Pyruvic acid: More than sun damage

Thanks to its exfoliating properties, pyruvic acid helps target visible signs of photoaging, improving the appearance of wrinkles, blemishes, and uneven skin texture.

Our recommendation: Diamond Extreme Molecular Acid⁴ Peel-Mask features pyruvic acid and other exfoliating acids to transform your skin in just 10 minutes.

Salicylic acid: The perfect acid for pores

If excess shine, blackheads, and blemishes are driving you crazy, remember this name. Its affinity for oil allows it to work inside the pores, helping remove excess sebum and accumulated dead skin cells.

Our recommendation: The 2-in-1 Stabilizing Cleansing Mask to purify the skin and minimize blemishes.

Lactic Acid: Exfoliation with an extra dose of hydration

Renewal and hydration can go hand in hand. This AHA helps remove dead skin cells, smooth texture, and boost radiance while supporting hydration.

Our recommendation: The exfoliating Stabilizing Resurfacing Essence with AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs for a more even-looking complexion.

Tranexamic acid: Dark spots in the spotlight

A more even skin tone is its specialty. Tranexamic acid helps regulate processes involved in skin pigmentation and reduce the appearance of dark spots.

Our recommendation: The rejuvenating Diamond Luminous Perfecting Serum to help correct dark spots and restore radiance.

Hyaluronic acid: Hydration with a plumping effect

Naturally present in the skin, hyaluronic acid is known for its ability to attract and retain water. This helps maintain hydration and elasticity, leaving skin looking plumper while softening the appearance of fine lines.

Our recommendation: Inhibit High Definition Lifting Cream that hydrates, plumps, and helps redefine facial contours.

Ascorbic acid: The antioxidant power of vitamin C

Did you know that pure vitamin C is an acid? This powerful antioxidant helps defend the skin against oxidative stress and supports collagen synthesis.

Our recommendation: C+C Vitamin 20% Antiox Solution, which features 12% pure ascorbic acid and a cocktail of antioxidants to boost firmness and radiance.

Frequently asked questions about skincare acids

Which acid is best for dark spots?

Tranexamic acid helps reduce the appearance of dark spots and promote a more even-looking skin tone. Glycolic acid and vitamin C can also help improve the appearance of uneven skin tone.

Which acid is best for pores and blackheads?

Salicylic acid (BHA), because its affinity for oil allows it to work on the pore.

Which acid is best for sensitive skin?

If you're looking for an exfoliating acid, PHAs, such as gluconolactone, are generally a gentler option for sensitive skin. Always introduce them gradually and pay attention to how your skin responds.

How often should you use exfoliating acids?

It depends on the formula: some are designed for daily use, while others are applied only a few times a week.